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Melt & Pour • Cold Process • Essential/Fragrance Oils
Colorants • Molds • Additives  • Oils/Butters
• Add a Tip/Hint •

Melt & Pour
•  I add a touch of beeswax to my melt and pour for a longer lasting soap as an option for people that don't like the idea of stearic acid.
- Contributed By: Nadine
•   Melt & Pour Soap has a tendency to "sweat". After trying many different approaches, I finally found a solution: at the same time as I add my fragrance and colorant, I also add 1 T. Aloe Vera liquid to each pound of M&P base (clear OR opaque). In addition to its beneficial effect, AloeVera makes the base even softer and more "pliable" than it already is. Depending upon how hard I want the finished product to be, I then add EITHER 1/2-1 T. Jojoba Oil OR a "pinch" (approximately 1/8 tsp.) of STEARIC ACID to my base. NOTE: I can use the Jojoba Oil in either my clear or opaque bases but since the Stearic Acid has a tendency to "dull" clear M&P, I reserve its use for when I am working with opaque M&P.
- Contributed By: ManassasMa
•  To embed soap chunks or shapes into another bar of soap, melt the main/base soap, let it cool a bit. Spray the soap chunks or soap shapes with rubbing alcohol and place in the mold. Then when the base soap is starting to get thicker/cooler, pour this over the shape/chunks in the mold. Make sure to lift up the chunks/shapes once your pour the overpour so that they are surrounded by soap.
•  Create layered soaps - melt/scent/color some soap, and pour one layer of it into your mold. Let that start to set - in the mean time, melt/scent/color the next layer. When the first layer has a thick skin, and when the next layer is cooled a bit, spray the first layer with rubbing alcohol, and pour the second layer. You can repeat this with as many layers as you'd like!

Cold Process
 • Add a little borax, about 3oz to a batch of soap, add it to the lye. It makes the soap really smooth to the skin and adds a little more suds. - Lois  • You may want to mix your fragrance or essential oils in before your colorants - some fragrance/essential oils give off a color of their own.
 • Using a stick blender can greatly reduce the time it takes to achive "trace" in your soapmaking. I had one batch that took me over an hour to trace when stirring by hand but it traced in less than 10 min. with a stick blender!

Essential & Fragrance Oils
 • Rosemary EO is not recommended for individuals with high blood pressure or epilepsy.
 • When adding scents to melt and pour soap, make sure that it has cooled off a bit - that way your fragrance won't burn off.

Color Combinations
Aqua - add blue to green
Gray - add small amount of black
Coral - add yellow to pink
Pink - add small amount of red
Purple - add blue to red
Light Tan - add black to orange
Teal Green - add black to green
Dusty Rose - add small amount of black to red
Magenta - add red to wine
Orange - add yellow to red
Wine - add red to purple
Brown - add blue to orange
Lime - add green to yellow
Moss Green - add red to green
Turquoise - add green to blue
Adding small amounts at a time helps you determine the color you're actually getting. Remember you can always add MORE color, but you can't take the color out once you add it!

Natural Colorants for Handmade Soap...
beta carotene = yellow (less than 1/4 tsp. will color over 15 lbs of soap!)
cinnamon = orange to brown
tumeric = yellow
paprika = red to brown
cocoa = brown to chocolate
chlorophyll = green
sage = green/musty to gray/green
beet = pink to rose
hibiscus = rose to purple
orange peel = yellow
fennel = green
dill = light to dark green
rosemary = green to brown
ginger = light caramel
blackberry = light mustard
blueberry = light mustard
lettuce = very pale green
carrot = light orange
rosehips = light to deep pink
cilantro = pale green at first, then brown
Marigolds = bright yellow or orange
aloe vera = pale green
rose petals = yucky brown
dandelions = faded yellow to brown flecks
cucumber = pale green
yellow cornmeal = light yellowish tan

•  For those wishing to make a nice sized shower bar, @6-7 ounces, Gladware snack containers with 3/4 to 1 cup of soap poured in are perfect! They make a "family-sized" bar that lasts forever. They are also fairly inexpensive, so if the cold-process heats up it's easy to throw away and replace. This doesn't happen very often so a few packages of containers will set you up in molds for quite some time. - Contributed By: Susie Hughes
•  When using wooden molds for cold process soap, line them either with freezer paper (with the waxed side in) or a plastic garbage bag. This lets the soap come out nice and easy. The freezer paper gives a nice wrinkle free soap.

•  Shea Butter...This butter can get grainy when used in lip balms and lotion bars if heated too hot. To avoid this, do not heat it higher than 125 degrees.
•  General Usage Amounts for CP Soap:
Canola Oil - less than 15%
Coconut Oil - 5-30%
Palm Kernal Oil - 20-50%
Palm Oil - 12-45%
Cocoa Butter - 2-15%
Shea Butter - 2-12%
Tallow - 20-50% (but can be used 100% if you want)

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